Sunday, August 31, 2014

Dialogue on the Gaza Conflict

A friend of mine shared my recent post, "Context on the Conflict," with his friends and family, and one of his friends wrote a response to it. Her email was definitely heated, but thoughtful and well-informed in my opinion. It took me a while to sit down and write back to her, but I finally did it. I think it's a pretty solid discourse if I do say so myself. The whole thing is below. If Dana writes another response, I'll share it too. 


Dana's email: 

Hey Kevin,
So far I have only gotten as far as to responding to your friend's summary of the conflict. I would welcome you to share my response with him, as he seems like a genuine and good person who is sincerely trying as hard as he can to understand the conflict within the context of his life, as am I. 

In response to Zach's reference to the IDF as "careful" by dropping leaflets, funneling humanitarian aid, and treating Gazan patients. These are actions done by a country that has completely surrounded and isolated another country. (we can play around with the word "occupation" and what that technically means, but all it means to me is that Palestine lives under Israel's invasive control that prevents it from being a self determining state, which is currently true. See this link:http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/mehdi-hasan/gaza-israel_b_5624401.html)  Israel is required by international law to provide this aid. The welfare of Gazans is in Israel`s hands because of the embargo. Syria does not have this same, unique, dynamic. Syrian rebels are not besieged and completely isolated by Assad.  It`s a completely different situation. 

The other situations aren`t even war situations at all. They are terrorist situations.  The Christians being expelled from Iraq is the only thing kind of resembling the Israel-Palestine problem and YES. That is SUPER HORRIBLE TOO. I have openly condemned it on twitter and shared a Muslim's response to  how "this isn't Islam." But the entire world isn't being demanded to support ISIS's right to defend itself, are they? It is Israel that is asking the world to support it's right to defend itself. So why are you trying to argue your point by comparing Israel's acts to acts of terrorism elsewhere in the world, and then saying how it's not as bad because you are sending out pamphlets first? I hope you see how audacious and self-condemning that is. You are essentially just categorizing Israel as more polite terrorists. 

Also, who exactly is it you are referring to that is blaming Israel for Hamas' rockets or Hamas' storing of these rockets in civilian places? People are blaming Israel for responding to these rockets with excessive bombing inflicting damage being described as a "man made hurricane," and responding to rockets being found in VACANT schools to blowing up schools that are FULL OF PEOPLE.  (Schools whose location Israel was warned about 17 times....)  

How has Hamas prioritized the destruction of Israel over the well being of it's people?  Hamas has a working and relatively effective government and has changed very little of the old PA's structure, unless it was out of necessity since most of Fatah boycotted when Hamas took power. (They WERE democratically elected in 2006, as I'm sure you know. So as proponents of democracy we are in a position where we must consider why we don't allow them to rule. Not saying we should, just saying we need to think about it.) Hamas has reduced street violence and has established social charities. They have NOT left Gazans to starve while they spend all their time building tunnels to go and kill Israelis. They actually originally built the tunnels to Egypt in order to get food, because Israel was only supplying Gazans with just enough not to starve to death. (http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/2-279-calories-per-person-how-israel-made-sure-gaza-didn-t-starve.premium-1.470419) It is through these tunnels and ONLY through these tunnels that Hamas was able to stabilize Gaza's economy after the embargo was placed. 

You believe that Hamas is a terrorist organization using Human Shields. But Israel has been named a terrorist state as of a few days ago and has also been accused by the UN of using human shields. So where is this moral high ground based? 

The term human shield is misleading. Asserting that Hamas admires the citizens who choose to ignore the evacuation notices and stay in their homes is completely valid. They do, I've heard them say it on the news. But suggesting that they are somehow cowardly hiding behind little babies while encouraging the people to sacrifice themselves is misleading and simply wrong.  Also, finding rockets in schools is a problem, but few articles mention that both of those schools were vacant.  A crime none the less, but considering Hamas is not an army and has to hide any resistance efforts (despite the fact that they are allowed to resist against Israel according to international law due to the fact that Israel is not acting in good faith as their occupying force) it can be seen as extremely irresponsible, but not necessarily as an argument that they have no respect for the lives or wellbeing of children. Also, to quote a colleague Robert Sullivan, "just because Hamas stores weapons in densely populated area does not mean that Israel has the right to kill all of the civilians to destroy said weapons. If a bank robber took multiple people hostage the police would not have the right to kill all of the hostages just to kill the bank robber."

The argument that people who take an interest in this conflict while being relatively silent on other injustices means there is something wrong with THEM really angers me. Heres why I care significantly more about this issue than any other issue in the media right now: 
It has an affect on countless other geo-political problems in the world. 
It is the only situation where the public is being demanded to acknowledge the occupiers right to defend itself against the occupied. 
It is the only situation where the aggressor is rendered the victim. 
It is the only situation where I feel controversial for condemning the murder of little children. 
It is the only situation that has led me to look up Martin Luther King Jr. quotes just to remind me to stay calm and peaceful and patient when the entire world seems to accept an injustice as just. 

Maybe you are the one who needs to ask yourself why I can sit and bear it when I hear about countless other injustices in the world, but this one makes me, and so much of the rest of the world, so sick and disheartened that I quite literally can not shut myself up about it. Maybe Israel needs to sit down and think about why this issue is causing so many people to take a stand, instead of just assuming it is because all of these people are irrational and unfair. 

This is a war, as you say. But it is a very uneven war, considering that one side has an army and the other doesn't. I sincerely ask you to step outside yourself for a moment and just consider that the tactics Hamas is using that you scoff at as barbaric or ruthless are simply common strategies of guerrilla warfare. Because that is the people you are choosing to attack. Poor people. If you want pretty brochures and perfect public relations teams that will calmly explain to the public why the killings are actually totally justified and okay, why don't you try attacking the United States. (I am obviously being sarcastic to prove a point.) 

Furthermore, Israel has NOT been committed to ending the occupation. Re: In one week of December alone, Netanyahu’s government pushed forward plans for 11,000 homes beyond the Green Line that marked Israel’s 1967 border — nearly as many settler homes as were approved in the previous 10 years combined. The explosion in activity has made 2012 the Year of the Settlement, inspiring a new level of war-themed rhetoric from settlement opponents. “Unprecedented Planning Strike on East Jerusalem,” says the Peace Now website, “6,600 units in 4 days,”
Time Magazine, 2012

In a statement late Wednesday, Israel’s housing minister, Uri Ariel, published bids for the construction of nearly 1,500 housing units in settlements in the West Bank and East Jerusalem, calling them “an appropriate Zionist response to the establishment of the Palestinian terror government.” He said he believed this would be “just the beginning.” In addition, the authorities revived plans on Thursday for 1,800 more housing units.
New York Times, 2014


Furthermore, the argument that the continued settlements is not really an impediment to peace, because most Palestinians would choose to free their prisoners from prison before choosing to enforce laws against settlements is like saying that starvation is not really an impediment to surviving a famine because most dying people would choose to drink water before choosing food. Just because they pick another important issue before this one doesn't mean the issue doesn't matter. I certainly hope that if you were locked up in prison, your country would bargain to get you back before worrying about land. 

Also, these arguments that Palestine "never misses the opportunity to miss an opportunity" are so incredibly offensive. Maybe Palestine is  missing opportunities because they are ALWAYS on Israel's terms and because they are busy trying to find enough food to put into their bodies. Are you seriously scolding them for not getting their stuff together to form an infrastructure while they are so hungry and oppressed that they need to dig underground to sneak in food?

All in all I found your summary extremely biased while trying to pass for being objective and sympathetic to both sides. I think that a bias towards Israel is so engrained in our public policy that we often don't even notice it anymore. If you are as interested in finding peace and truth as you seem to be, I hope you will think about and respond to my arguments. I have a lot to learn as well and I think debates such as these are an effective and peaceful way to do so.

Sincerely, 
Dana 


My response: 

Hi Dana, 

I appreciate your email and I’m sorry it has taken me so long to respond. I totally agree with some of the points you made, but I also would like to dispute a few of your claims. Many of the things you said and the way you framed things were the first time I've heard them, and they made me think differently. You are obviously knowledgeable on the subject and I appreciate you giving me your perspective. 

I think the link you shared is a good one and if I had more time I would try and engage every point separately. I reluctantly agree with the #10, #11, and #8. I think #7 and #1 are taken out of context, and I totally disagree with #2 and #5 as I’ll talk about. For now, the best article I’ve seen for “the other side,” in terms of disputing specific talking points is this one. 

People from both sides of the political spectrum praised my post for being fair and balanced, and I stated my personal positions from the outset. So I don’t agree with you that my post is "extremely biased while trying to pass for being objective and sympathetic to both sides.” 

Also, I specifically tried to talk about historical context because that is sometimes lost in the debate, and you didn’t really engage a couple of my arguments. I’m curious what you think about the fact that Palestinians are the only refugees who are not resettled and how this perpetuates and festers the conflict over time. I also wonder what you think specifically of the 2000 peace process I wrote about, when the deal was more "on Palestine's terms." I also ask what your opinion is on the original Israeli withdrawal from Gaza, which occurred before the blockade. (the blockade which was a result of Hamas’ election win, yes, but also its violent overthrow of the PA and subsequent violence against Israeli civilians.) Do you think if Gazan leadership had handled it differently, when handed a piece of land completely free of Israelis, there might have been a process towards an independent Gazan state? 

As for your points. First I want to talk about where we agree: 

I agree with you that I don’t think Netanyahu or his government is a partner for peace.  Netanyahu is committed to security first, which resonates with many Israelis, but this isn't productive towards the peace process. And some of the government policies, officially or unofficially, make me really mad. And the actions of some of the settlers on the west bank, from threats to “price tag attacks” make me ashamed.      

Israel’s economic restrictions on Gaza — including calorie counts — is just one example of misguided policy that attempted to weaken Hamas but actually just made life hell for the people of Gaza. There are many other examples of these types of brutal Israeli actions in the West Bank over the past decades. I don’t dispute that at all. 

What I was trying to say about Israel's commitment to peace is that in the past two decades, the two sides have been very close to making peace on a few occasions. Rabin’s assassination by a Jewish terrorist was a tragedy, but that was a time when the Israeli gov't was indeed open to peace. Same thing with Barak in 2000, which I discussed in my last post...After Arafat’s betrayal in 2000, when the Israeli public learned how much Barak was willing to offer for peace and STILL was turned down, people became a lot more cynical. (although my girlfriend Adi has just informed me that this wasn't so black-and-white, and there were a lot of misunderstandings going on at the time, and it wasn't completely Arafat's fault). Olmert supposedly was pretty close to peace with Abbas, but he had too many problems of his own with scandal, mismanagement in the 2nd Lebanon War, lack of public trust, etc. Which is part of the reason we are where we are now. Maybe Tzipi Livni could have made something happen when Kadima won the elections in 2009, but she couldn’t form a government and that’s why we’re stuck with Bibi now. So I stand by what I said that Israel has “sometimes more and sometimes less” been committed to peace. 

And I in no way meant to downplay the issue of the settlements, because they’re a huge impediment to peace. But to weigh in on your point: the expansion of existing settlements, especially those in parts of East Jerusalem that would become part of Israel in any conceivable land swap, should not be given the same weight as brand new settlements deeper in the west bank. When Obama naively called for a “full settlement freeze” early in his presidency, it put Abbas in a tough position because he couldn’t push for anything less than what a U.S. president demanded. Yet everyone knew that those settlements in East Jerusalem are not disputed in the peace talks, and everything including repairs to existing homes are now stuck in limbo. I’m not condoning the new settlements called for by right-wing politicians, but it’s a lot more complex of an issue than just the number of housing units. 

As for innocent civilians. According to British Col. Richard Kemp, “No other army in the world has ever done more than Israel is doing now to save the lives of innocent civilians in a combat zone.” This is corroborated by Richard Goldstone’s backpedalingon his own report after the 2012 fighting, which originally accused Israeli of targeting civilians. But the report didn’t hold water once the facts were revealed. When the lopsided casualty counts (which are fed to the UN directly by Hamas) are further analyzed for this current conflict, we might be looking at much different numbers, as happened in 2012. 

Regarding the targeting of innocent civilians in this recent conflict: Like I said in my earlier post, the specific events in which Israel allegedly killed innocent civilians need to be investigated. My girlfriend does PR for the New Israel Fund (a group of left-leaning Israeli non-profits), and they are calling for an independent investigation into these events. 

My buddy served in the IDF, and I asked him specifically about this after reading your email. He said: "The claim that Israel targets citizens is simply untrue. I have sat through countless IDF briefings and there is always the highest stress placed on the need to limit civilian deaths. Every civilian death in Gaza has been a success for Hamas' military strategy and an unfortunate price to bear for Israel to protect its citizens from rocket fire and terrorist infiltration. Israel is all too aware of the scrutiny it faces and every civilian death places additional pressure on Israel to halt its activities when it has a serious and lengthy mission ahead of it: to obtain a quiet border with Gaza.” But still, I saw what you saw with those kids on the beach getting gunned down. That’s unacceptable, and you should know that many Israelis are calling for an external investigation. 

About Israel bombing schools: First, one of the school bombings was a misfire by a Hamas rocket, revealed by a reporter once he was away from Gaza and free from Hamas intimidation and censorship.

The second instance was Israeli fire that hit an empty courtyard, and then Hamas moved corpses onto the scene to stage the events. And I’m not sure what argument you were making by saying that rockets were found in vacant schools. I don’t think it’s ever ok to house rockets in schools, or to base your headquarters at a busy hospital, or to store weapons caches in civilian houses, or to arrange dead children near schools for the cameras, or to use UN ambulances for war purposes, or to pretend to be dead at a staged funeral. 

The analogy about the bank robber is accurate as far as it portrays normal Gazans as hostages caught in a horrible, horrible situation for which Israel shoulders some of the blame. But the analogy would make more sense if the bank robber was just quietly looking to steal some money and move on. But the bank robber is launching rockets into civilian areas from behind the hostages. IDF soldiers have reported seeing terrorists charging with a child in one hand and an AK47 in the other, because their operation manuals instruct them that this is the best way to throw an IDF soldier off his guard in a volatile situation. The Hamas manuals also explicitly state that IDF soldiers are instructed to limit civilian casualties, and instruct terrorists how to use this to their advantage. Confirmed by CNN, “The manual reveals that Hamas recognizes the IDF is committed to minimizing harm to civilians and explains how civilians can be used against it.” 

But beyond all this is the simple point that Hamas has plenty of open areas away from the neighborhoods from which to fire their rockets, but they don’t, because Israel would have an easier time neutralizing those weapons. Israel has a much harder time destroying rocket launching sites when they are nestled in civilian neighborhoods, precisely because it requires the IDF to carefully navigate civilian zones. The IDF puts its own troops at greater risk in its efforts to limit civilian casualties, because like I said, Israel suffers hugely in the international PR arena when Palestinians are killed. It’s Hamas's strategy and it unfortunately works. 

Regarding your claims about Hamas’s governance: Yes, Hamas was democratically elected, but that doesn’t change Hamas’ objectives towards Israel, as stated in their official charter. For all the bombastic comparisons of this current conflict with actual genocide, we can’t forget an important point. When a group actually states - when it officially commits in their charter - that they want to commit genocide against us, we should believe them. This is Hamas’ stance towards Jews and nothing Hamas has done would make me think differently. 

And I disagree with your claims that Hamas has made things better for Gazans and has an “effective government.” I have never been to Gaza, but I have heard and read about it. Hamas has cracked down on freedom and self-expression, and has ruled as anyone would expect from an Islamic fundamentalist regime. Yes, Hamas built tunnels to smuggle food in from Egypt, (forcing children to work and killing 160 in the process) but Hamas taxed those transactions to enrich their leaders. The leaders also siphoned off billions of dollars from donations for their personal fortunes. And I’m sure you’ve seen the news about Hamas’ brutal killing of suspected collaborators without trial. Contrast this with Leftist Israelis that freely protest against their own country without fear of retaliation by their own government. 

And while we’re on tunnels: The tunnels into Israeli kindergartens and houses were most certainly NOT to smuggle food. They were to kidnap and murder Israelis. 

And of course Hamas could stop lobbing rockets and mortars at Israel, and agree to one of the past 6 cease-fires that Israel has agreed to (all but the first one proposed). That would be helpful for its civilians too. But Hamas refuses to demilitarize in exchange for 1) a new seaport, 2) the lifting of the blockade, and 3) enough economic development aid to make Gaza the next Singapore. Because demilitarizing would mean Hamas can’t attack Israel anymore and - most likely - eventual moderation of its extremist stance. What we're seeing is a desperate terrorist group on the verge of irrelevance, being more interested in its own power and Israel’s destruction, than its citizens. 

And I actually have been to the West Bank a couple times. I made friends with a Palestinian man at the King Hussein Bridge Border Crossing when I was coming back from Amman, and he offered to give me a lift through Jericho and Ramallah to Jerusalem. He drove me in his model year BMW SUV. He told me about his anger with Israel, his thoughts on the conflict and the peace process, etc, and it was fascinating, but he most certainly wasn’t starving. The fact of the matter is that Palestinians have “gotten their stuff together” and formed an infrastructure quite well in the West Bank, sometimes with help from Israel, often in spite of Israel's oppressive policies. I have been to Ramallah, which is a culture capital with cafes, universities, a strong feminist movement, and intellectual clubs, where the PA and Israel perform joint operations. The Palestinians have “gotten their stuff together” enough to participate in a peace process, and to deny this is just playing into the Palestinian victim mentality, which - yeah - I totally believe exists, when I see how the Druze and Arab Christians are thriving and are safer in Israel than anywhere else in the middle east, and their sons and daughters are serving alongside Jews in the IDF, and they have unparalleled upward mobility, all while the Islamic State rapes and decapitates their brethren across the border in Syria and Iraq. 

As you said, this is an uneven war. One side has an army and has successfully, miraculously, defended itself time and time again from the armies of its neighbors, whose objective was to annihilate it. Then more recently, its army has - also miraculously - defended its civilians from bus-bombings, synagogue-bombings, school-bombings, targeting of mothers with their children. This side has deployed advanced technology to defend itself from rockets aimed at civilians. And sometimes its soldiers falter, and sometimes the army makes mistakes or acts unethically. And some Israelis cheer when their army kills civilians, but most lament it, even if only because this hurts Israel’s public image. And everyone - EVERYONE - hates to see its soldiers die in the battlefield. And when a group of Jews killed an Arab teenager as revenge for the kidnappings, the entire country spoke out against it, and the murderers were prosecuted under the law. 

Contrast that with the other side. The other side has been a hotbed of innovation for terrorism — the first suicide bombings, the first plane hijackings, the murdering of olympic athletes. And now, the mastery of a sinister PR strategy. When terrorists kidnap three innocent Israeli teenagers, some civilians celebrate and take selfies of themselves holding up three fingers. And one of the kidnappers’ mothers says how proud of him she is. This side teaches its children hate. It’s asymmetrical warfare alright. But its moral asymmetry. 

I want to refer to several instances of non-violent resistance actually being far more effective than terrorism and violence. The Black civil rights movement in America. Ghandi in India. South Africa. And yes, the Fatah (PA) renunciation of violence, the boycott movement (which I don't like, because I think it has anti-semitic elements, but I do see a cause-and-effect bringing Israel back to the negotiating table) and of course the threat of going to the International Criminal Court. The difference with these non-violent protests is that neither African Americans nor Indians nor the South Africans wanted to completely kill all of the other side. Hamas's M.O. is to exterminate and expel the Jews.

I will clarify my argument about those who "take an interest in this conflict while being relatively silent on other injustices.” I'm not saying something is "wrong with them." I'm saying Israel is held to a double standard and it’s fueled by anti-semitism. China occupies Tibet and Taiwan. Russia is occupying part of Georgia and Crimea, and may take even more of Ukraine. Turkey is occupying Northern Cyprus. The US occupied Iraq, and may have to again. Great Britain is still technically occupying Northern Ireland. 

But the protests you see all over the world that quickly devolve into anti-semitic taunts, into attacks on Jewish neighborhoods and stores and synagogues that have absolutely nothing to do with Israel, into boycotts of Jewish-owned shops, and into cold-blooded murder, is above and beyond. The leaders of Turkey, which has its own sordid history of genocide against Armenians, are so quick to condemn every Israeli move and equate Israel with Nazi genocide. It’s ironic and clearly due to anti-semitism. 

I would go even further and say that this anti-semitism, this revulsion at the idea of the Jews having a tiny sliver of land where they can have self-determination and safety, is why this conflict has perpetuated this long. I already spoke about this in my original post. 

Lastly. The notion that Israel "has an effect on countless other geo-political problems in the world” is a drastic oversimplification. It’s so easy to think that “if only Israel would go away, everything would be fine.” But as the middle east erupts in turmoil, Israeli society remains stable. Yeah, Israel has an effect on the region, and some would argue that it has a stabilizing effect. You could argue against them. But the country can’t and shouldn't be blamed for everything. 

Phew. I tried to cover as many of your arguments as possible. And I just summoned way more righty-right-winger than I thought I could muster, while my girlfriend yapped over my shoulder disagreeing with basically everything I wrote. So I will end with this link, which most accurately sums up how I feel. 

The Hebrew word for shrimp is..."shrimp"

My first month as a bona fide employed expat has been really great. I went with my friend Esty and her friends on a camping / hiking weekend in the north. They were all Americans but one of the guys works for Young Judea and has organized lots of overnight trips, and the other guys had served in the IDF. So they knew all the best spots. Highlights of the trip were hiking through a stream in Yehudiya, swinging off a "tarzan" swing into the Jordan River, camping on the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) and cooking a monstrous Poyke Pot filled with beef shoulder and veggies. My favorite part of the weekend, though, was cliff diving in a beautiful hidden cove. We had to hike an hour in the blistering mid-day sun to get there, but it was so worth it!
 
I made some really good friends during the weekend. It was mostly young Americans who joined the IDF as “lone soldiers,” and it was fascinating to hear their various reasons for making Aliyah and enlisting.
 
I got to know Esty’s roommate, Ilya, a cool Israeli dude who speaks English, Hebrew, and French with a Russian accent, but speaks Russian with an Israeli accent. Go figure. Ilya works as a software programmer for internet security, using the skills he learned in an intelligence unit in the IDF. He's preparing to move to his company's New York branch in February.
 
Ilya was born in Israel to parents who made Aliyah from Russia, but he was actually formally kicked out of the country when he turned 18. This is because he is a “fourth-generation Jew.” What this means is that his great-grandmother is his only Jewish relative. (His mother is completely non-Jewish, and his father had only one Jewish grandparent.) Israel welcomes anyone with third-generation Jewish roots and their spouses, but that’s where the line is drawn. Later, I asked Adi about this. She said it's actually a bit of an issue, because people from Russia and Ethiopia who only have one Jewish grandparent, and no practical or spiritual connection to Judaism, are able to move to Israel for a better life. Are these people Jewish? Should they be considered Jewish? I said that it seemed like a stretch…these people aren’t actually Jewish, and they are diluting Israel’s Jewish identity, and maybe it would be better to only allow people who have a Jewish parent at least. But Adi responded that this rule was created to mirror the litmus test used by the Nazis. If someone had just one Jewish grandparent, he would have been rounded up and sent to the camps like any other Jew. So, that same someone would now have a home in Israel.
 
Adi also said that these Russians and Ethiopians who come here are favored by some left-leaning political groups, because they provide a secular counterweight to the rapidly multiplying Horadim (ultra-orthodox). Interesting point.   
 
Back to Ilya. So when he turned 18, he wrote a letter and met with the Dept of Immigration, and he explained that he is a Zionist and he wants to stay, he promised he’ll be a good citizen, etc, and the government let him stay. And after four years in the army and a few more years contributing to the Israeli hi-tech sector, (and the fact that he’s an unmitigated badass) it’s safe to say Israel is lucky to have this guy.

---

I just moved into my new apartment. I’m really excited about it. It’s got two balconies and lots of natural light. And it’s in the best location! The apartment is on a quiet, tree-lined street, but a mere hundred feet away is the Carmel Shuk and all the restaurants and cafes of Nahalat Binyamin. My favorite bar is a Jazz club called 50 For Your Soul, and it’s around the corner. I’m also a stone’s throw from King George Street, and walking distance to Rothschild Street and the beach. It’s the center of the center!

It’s interesting how the things you look for in an apartment here are different than in America. Although Tel Aviv is a bustling metropolitan cultural center, it’s still a city in the Middle East with a low GDP per capita compared to Western countries. What that means is that the residential buildings are more like Belgrade than Boston. You can get a really nice place, but you have to pay high prices – especially relative to the lower incomes here. So a nice room in the center with good A.C. and lots of windows, maybe with a chillaxing rooftop, is all I’m asking for, even if the building doesn’t have an elevator and the pipes and wiring run all over the hallway ceiling and walls. And the added bonus is that the staircase does not have any windows, which is a big benefit when you’re sheltering from rocket attacks. Different priorities for sure…


---

I’ve been getting into a weekend mountain biking routine with my colleague Eran and his friends. He picks me up Friday morning around 6 am, we link up with his buddies, and then I pass out in the back seat and wake up at the trailhead, not sure exactly where I am in this tiny country, but ready to ride. His friends are – to say it mildly – not in peak physical condition, so the pace is slow and we take lots of breaks for coffee and cigarettes. (They bring at least two thermoses of coffee). To them it’s a social thing as much as it’s exercise. And I’m happy, because I’m chilling with Israelis, watching them talk shit and sometimes even participating with my broken Hebrew. That’s what I love about mountain biking: you have the whole gamut, from competitive trail-burning, to farting around with more time spent stopped in the shade than in the saddle. You don't see much of the latter with the lycra-clad roadies.

I feel like I’ve already seen most of the cultural sights here, so now it’s on to the nature / outdoorsy side. If I can look back on this year and say that I hit all the best Israeli trails, I’ll be satisfied!

One of Eran’s biking buddies, Yuval, is a tour guide and driver by profession. For obvious reasons, business has been slow for the past two months and Yuval has had lots of time on his hands. So he decided he was going to get in shape and mountain bike every single day. And his current bike was starting to fall apart here and there. So, he went out and spontaneously bought himself a new $5,000 bike! To reiterate, Yuval was seeing very little income during the peak summer season, but instead of worrying about his economic situation, he blew a huge chunk of money so he could be productive towards his health during this slow period. That’s such an Israeli Carpe Diem attitude, and I dig it.

Otherwise, just having a good time and living the life. I’m still learning a lot at work, and checking out new restaurants now that I’m actually making money again. I’m trying to learn Hebrew every day. I discovered a grocery chain that sells all the un-kosher treats I could ask for: Bacon and scallops and shrimp, oh my! Adi won’t eat that stuff, so I only indulge every so often, but it’s enough to get me through. 



Anti-war protest in Rabin Square

Some signs were more inspiring than others

Another sunset on my bike ride home from the beach

This is usually just a barren dirt road that connects the bike path to the road towards my office. But on several evenings this month, it's been filled with dozens of busses! It's all Ultra-Orthodox people -- I'm not sure where they're from, but it's cool that they get to come to the beach. As long as my route isn't blocked, that is...


...but sometimes my route IS blocked, and I try to remain calm. I have a loud bell that I use liberally when needed. First-world problems. 

Water hike in Yehudiya

Yehudiya

Chilling at the waterfall in Yehudiya, we saw this contraption. How awesome! When (if) I have kids, I'm totally getting one! 

Sunset on the Kinneret during our camping trip.  
Another gorgeous sunset. Lately, after working out at the outdoor gym on my ride home from work, I've been jumping in the sea! Total paradise. Nothing like a sunset swim to make you appreciate each and every day :)


Sweet mountain biking. Usually, when you see mountains on the horizon, they are in another country...either Jordan or Lebanon or Syria. These are the Hevron mountains, which are in the West Bank. So...depends who you ask...regardless, it makes you realize just how small Israel is.

When I think about Israeli agriculture, I think "intensive, innovative, high-yield, efficient," etc. So it's easy to forget that this sort of agriculture still takes place in beautiful valleys adjacent to moshavs and kibbutzim. It's definitely not the endless monocrops of the USA! This was the end of our mountain biking ride.

Families with half-asleep children huddling in the staircases during an early morning rocket alarm. 

The view from the balcony of my apartment! There's a parking lot and then a really nice building, and from here it sort of looks like the country 

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Photos of the end of the session

I got behind again! :) There's just too much to write about for the amazing end to the Career Israel program, and I'd rather spend the time sharing my reflections about the current Gaza confict, so I'm going to just put up photos and let them do the talking! Sorry they're so jumbled -- Firefox sucks for uploading photos.

The big news item is that I was offered a job with my company, and I've decided to stay at least one more year here in Tel Aviv!


Adi and I hiking on the Banyas River


Swimming in the river was forbidden, but we went for a quick dip. Rules meant to be broken...

My sister Arielle visited me for ten days and we had a great time!

Arielle and I visited our sister Leila's friend, Lee, in Haifa. It was a great trip -- we went hiking in the  Carmel mountains, toured the Ba'hai Gardens, and drove around the city sightseeing.

Ba'hai Gardens

Haifa is basically built into the side of a mountain, so the entire city is super steep




Overlooking the port in Haifa

Arielle also came with us for our program's trip to the north. It was an awesome experience, with great hikes, delicious food, and a lot of interesting interactions. We visited a teaching college in an Arab village to interact with Israeli Arabs and learn how they feel about Israel. Their opinions, as you would expect, ran the whole gamut, from supportive of Israel and feeling they are safer here than anywhere else in the Middle East; to being generally satisfied with the current situation but still feeling like second-class citizens and upset about the state of affairs with the West Bank and Gaza; to completely against any Jewish State, denying the Holocaust, death to Jews, etc. 

We finished off the North trip with a delicious lunch and relaxing on the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee). My favorite part of the entire trip was a visit to the Kibbutz right on the border of Lebanon, which sustained heavy shelling every day for years from Hezbollah. We heard from an old guy, originally from Ohio, who made Aliyah and fought in the army, then spent the rest of his life as a farmer on this Kibbutz. He was about as radically right-wing as you can get! A few of his choicest phrases: "Out here, we're Jewish Rednecks, and if you mess with us, we'll break your bones. We won every single war, it's our land, and if you don't like it, tough. Over that border is Hezbollah-Land, and I greet those assholes every morning (holding up his middle finger to the window)." Whenever we tried to argue with him, he would just talk over us and repeat his talking points. He was certainly an entertaining character.

Tel Aviv has one of the biggest gay pride parades in the world. The starting point was at the park right next to my building! We walked with the parade all the way to Yafo, where there was a huge free outdoor concert.

Another sunset on the beach on my bike commute home

The coolest part about bike commuting is going through the port and seeing all the cool events going on. There are outdoor concerts, events for kids, etc. On this evening, I ran into a free outdoor yoga class!

Book Fair in Rabin Square for Tel Aviv book week.


Last month Tel Aviv hosted its yearly "Layla Levan" festival, translating to "White Night," in which cafes and restaurants stay open all night and there are lots of free concerts and other events. This is a view of Rothschild Street around 2 am.

Closing Seminar in Jerusalem.

Adi's company did the PR for the Israeli Conference on Peace, so she was able to sneak me in. The conference happened to be on the same day Hamas began firing long range rockets at Tel Aviv. Sadly ironic.

When I went home to the states for a few weeks, my grandmother showed me this savings bond she bought in 1973 to help Israel defend itself during the Yom Kippur War. Very cool.

Got myself a nice second-hand hardtail 29er with hydraulic disc brakes. If I'm going to be here at least another year, I'm gonna hit the trails!

Shabbat dinner in Haifa with Lee and her friends! Afterwards we were playing drinking games, and we introduced the Israelis to "King's Cup." They loved it! Problem was, we soon ran out of beer, so we switched to arak (Israeli liquor). They  insisted on following the rules of the game, drinking every time they were supposed to, and they got extremely, ridiculously wasted. It was funny. 

You see a lot of cars parked on the curb in Israel -- but I never knew it can be  legal! 

I decided to lay off the crossfit for a while, and instead hit one of the free outdoor gyms on the bike path home from work. I also do yoga sometimes on the grass. Can't beat this as a place to exercise...

All the roofs of the cabanas were decorated with rainbow colors for the Pride Parade. Almost every bar and many buildings also raised rainbow flags in solidarity with the LGBT community.

Overlooking the Jezreel Valley. We met with a representative of the HaShomer organization, which is a volunteer group that watches over farmers' land -- both Arab and Jewish farmers -- to protect the farms from vandalism and theft by Bedouins. It was crazy to learn this is actually needed, and that the government doesn't do more to help. In the Western USA, cattle theft carries a high punishment, if you're fortunate enough not to get shot by the farmer first. Different rules here in Israel...

More hiking in the north! 

We came to this incredible spring on one of the hikes on the North Trip.

Sunset from Adi's rooftop.

We went on a day trip to the West Bank to meet with groups of the Israeli Far Right. The general line of propaganda was that  there aren't nearly as many Palestinians living in the West Bank as they lead people to believe, that Israeli companies and factories enjoy large amounts of Arabs, giving them a better life, and often times they live together as neighbors and friends. There was no mention of occupation, displacement, or "price tag" attacks. I confronted our host about the real reasons behind the settlements, but didn't really get anywhere with her. It was really interesting nonetheless. I just wish we could have met with Palestinians. 
This is the incredible Shiloh archeological site, an ancient tabernacle of the Jews on their route towards Jerusalem. This is also the site of Hanna's prayer, one of the first biblical indications of "how to pray."  

With Lee in Haifa 

At the Justin Timberlake concert. Or, as the Israelis say, "Justeen Teemberlayyke." It was a huge crowd! Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Si3xFMXe90o 

A sea of people at the Justin concert 

With my friends Lee (another lee) and Natan out on the town in Tel Aviv 
We did an awesome camping trip on the Kinneret (Galilee). I brought all my camping gear with me on my return, so there will be a lot more to come! 

The Kinneret at night, the lights of Tiberias in the distance 
Love the lights of the hotel at Rabin Square 

For Shavuot, my office had a cheesecake competition! 

My friend Shir invited me to a lovely Shavuot dinner with his family. Not the best holiday for me, since all the food revolves around dairy, but I made due. It's been really tough for me cooking in Israel in general, actually: I realized that about half of my recipes involve shrimp! And even though Israel is on the Mediterranean, all the grocery stores seem to only sell frozen fish. It's so dumb. But recently I discovered a nearby supermarket that sells cod, which is a fish I can do a lot with. So I'm on the right track...

Mountain biking with my colleague Eran. My old beater bike held up, but my new bike will be a lot better! 

My favorite day-drinking spot is Il Visino wine bar, in the north of the city near Hayarkon Park. They have a sweet outdoor patio, awesome wine and delicious tapas. In this photo, we were fortunate to be there for an off-the-charts New Orleans swing band. The in the purple dress was the best tap dancer I've ever seen in person. Amazing!